Grower's Resource

Where do I get soil from?

We recommend sourcing your soil locally. And beyond that, try your hand at making your own potting mix instead of using solely store-bought mix. You’ll know exactly what is in your soil, which can be helpful if you ever need to do any troubleshooting.

 

What do I put in a soil mix?

If you’ve received a clone from us before, and you like what’s in our soil, or even if you’re just curious what’s in it, we use a mix from a company local to our facility. Here’s a list of ingredients:

• Aged Bark Fines

• Peat Moss

• Yard Debris and Compost

• Cow and Chicken Manure

• Fish Compost

• Pumice

• Perlite

• Sand

• Fish Bone Meal

• Limestone (for pH control)

• Alfalfa Meal

• Feather Meal

• Kelp Meal

 

If you already have a base that you like working with, but would like to add a little bit extra to your own mix, here are some suggestions:

• Beneficial bacteria: good pest preventative as part of an IPM system.

• Perlite: good for drainage. Can be purchased from most gardening stores.

• Pumice: good for drainage. Can be purchased from most gardening stores.

• Coco coir: good for water retention. Can be purchased from most gardening stores.

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The double-edged sword

There are some caveats when it comes to any soil, regardless of the source. Soil doesn’t exist in a bubble. You need to consider how you’ll be watering your plants when you are creating or finding the right soil.

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Heavier soils retain lots of water, so you won’t need to water your plants as often AND if it retains too much water it could cause your plants to get root rot. To make your soil heavier, add: bark, compost, manure, or sand.

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Lighter soils retain less water, so you’ll need to water your plants more often, but don’t go too long without watering because there is less water storage in the soil. Lighter soils are generally better for plants. To make your soil lighter, add: pearlite, pumice, or coco coir.

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Further Reading

• Organic Soil for Marijuana

• How To Adjust pH Level When Growing Cannabis

Can I use water from anywhere?

Not exactly. Cannabis needs water to fall within a specific range on the pH scale: 6-7 when grown in soil and 5.5-6.1 for hydroponic growers. Water being too acidic or alkaline makes it impossible for cannabis roots to properly absorb nutrients, which negatively affects plant growth and can even kill the plants.

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What’s the best water source for my plants?

Distilled water is your best option. It comes without any microorganisms or minerals, so it’s essentially a blank slate. Though it generally has a pH of above 7.0, various additives can adjust the pH to make it fall within the appropriate range for your growing system.

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There are a couple of other sources that can get you close to the blank slate of distilled water:

• Air conditioner water (yup, straight from your unit)

• Bottled mineral water

• Rain water

 

Regardless of the water’s source, you’ll want to be careful about the pH levels before using it on your plants.

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How can I tell what a water’s pH is?

One option is to use a pH reader. Keeping it calibrated is important to maintain accuracy. While some pH readers may be less expensive, the electrode (which actually measures the pH) will need replacing during the life of the meter. Finding a pH reader that fits within your budget and allows you to replace the electrodes gets you the most use out of your pH reader. You can find some options below under the Affiliates headline within this Watering Section.

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You can also use a pH test kit. They’re available at most grow shops, but are also available online. Sun Clone enjoys using the test kit from General Hydroponics. It is affordable and accurate, and unlike a pH reader with an electrode does not require consistent calibrating.

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What if I need to make changes to the pH levels?

Most commonly you’ll find yourself needing to decrease, rather than increase, the pH level of your water. Luckily, you have a couple different options.

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The use of organic acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, or phosphoric acid can get added to water in really small quantities. Make sure to wear protective gear since they can be corrosive. 

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Rainwater has generally a lower pH because of the amounts of carbon dioxide absorbed from the atmosphere.

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Peat moss is able to lower the pH levels of water if you let it soak for a couple of hours. To make it easy to remove once it’s done soaking, put it in a mesh bag before soaking.

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General Hydroponics, as part of their pH test kit, will also provide you with “pH Up” and “pH Down” liquids so you can adjust as needed.

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How can I get water to my plants?

Drip systems, even for indoor plants, are often more water efficient and consistent than watering by hand. Additionally, they require little maintenance once set up, so if you’re constantly on-the-go or want to eliminate as much interference as possible, a drip system might be the best option for you. 

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Watering tools, such as tanks, water pitchers, and aeration pumps work together to circulate the water, preventing stagnation, algae growth, oxygenation, and may increase consistent fertilizer/feeding application. What works best for your setup may take some trial and error.

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Further Reading

• Water Quality: pH and Alkalinity

• Cannabis farms in California rely on wells outside of regulated groundwater basins

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Sun Clone Recommendations

pH test kit from Amazon

What nutrients does a cannabis plant need?

They need three major nutrients: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K), or NPK for short. There are, of course, more than just those three that any plant would need to survive, but by far these are the most important. To make an analogy for those less than green-thumb-inclined, it’s similar to how humans need Fats, Proteins, and Carbohydrates (in addition to other things) to keep our bodies running.

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What are the types of fertilizer?

There are three types of fertilizers that are used for cannabis production: organic, synthetic, and hybrid. In most cases, it’s easier to use either organic or hybrid as growers have better control over the distribution of nutrients. 

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Organic: more environmentally friendly than synthetic fertilizers, less likely to “burn” your plants, allows natural absorption of nutrients for balanced growth.

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Synthetic: tailored to be exactly what your plant needs based on growth phase (which can be determined by the NPK ratio), usually in the form of supplements rather than the soil itself, requires reapplication as the soil doesn’t benefit from these supplements. 

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When do I use fertilizer?

Seedling

No fertilizer needed. Water is all your seedlings need.

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Vegetative

You can start using fertilizer now. Ideally, the NPK tailored to this period has a greater Nitrogen than Phosphorus or Potassium. You’ll know the Vegetative stage has started when your plants start to get their leaves and it goes until they start to develop buds.

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Transitioning

In between vegetative and flowering, shift the NPK towards being more balanced. However, you can consider this adjustment optional, as you can always go straight to a ratio tailored for flowering.

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Budding/Flowering

You’ll want to ease up on the amount of Nitrogen and lean into a ratio heavier in Phosphorus and Potassium. This will help maximize your yields. Some studies have shown that higher levels of Nitrogen at this stage will negatively affect your yields. 

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How do I know if something is wrong?

The following information is taken directly from the Utah State University article titled “Nutrient Deficiencies”, linked under Further Reading.

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Symptoms of Nitrogen Deficiency or Excess

Nitrogen is highly soluble and easily washed from soils and therefore must be replaced regularly, especially during vegetative plant growth. Mild deficiencies can be common while roots struggle to absorb enough, but this should be alleviated when growth slows.

 

Deficiency

• Chlorosis (yellowing) beginning on older leaves starting at leaf tips and moving toward center

• Defoliation of extremely chlorotic older foliage

• Premature flowering

• Decreased flower and seed production

To combat deficiency:

• Fertilize with a slightly more concentrated nutrient solution

• Enhance soil health by applying an amendment after harvest such as manure or compost, or plant a cover crop in fall and till in spring

Excess

• Leaves darken beginning on lowest leaves

• Excess foliage growth

• Weak stems that are prone to breakage

• Reduced resistance to pests, especially aphids

To combat excess:

• Where possible, leach soil with water and after leaching, apply a dilute complete fertilizer

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Symptoms of Phosphorus Deficiency or Excess

Deficiencies tend to be common during flowering. They are more extreme in soil that is clayey, poorly drained, and soggy. High pH (>7) makes phosphorus unavailable for absorption in the soil. Cold soil temperatures can also prevent uptake. An excess of phosphorus can occur from repeated applications of manure, especially with drip irrigation that will not leach through the soil.

 

Deficiency

• Purple petioles

• Bluish-green leaves

• Slowed plant growth

• Dark copper or dark purple blotches on lower leaves

• Lower leaves curl downward and/or contort

• Necrosis and purple/bronze coloring on heavily affected leaves

• Small flower buds

• Delayed flowering

• Higher susceptibility to insect pests

• and diseases

To combat deficiency:

• Apply fine, steamed bone meal and an organic source of phosphorus onto the soil before planting

• Ensure balanced levels of all nutrients because phosphorus deficiency can also be caused by excess levels of zinc and iron

Excess

• Symptoms resemble nutrient deficiencies of iron and zinc

To combat excess:

•  Avoid excessive applications, as leaching with water is not effective

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Symptoms of Potassium Deficiency or Excess

When soil salinity is high (from excess fertilizer or sodium in the water source), potassium becomes unavailable for root absorption, causing deficiency. Cold soil temperature also causes reduced absorption. Conversely, potassium can build up in soils that have had excessive fertilizer applications. An excess of potassium is difficult to diagnose if other nutrient imbalances are also present. 

 

Deficiency

• Rusty-brown, dehydrated, and upcurled margins and tips of young leaves

• Rust-colored blotches on foliage that turn brown

• Weak stems

• Higher susceptibility to insect and disease pests

• Slowed and diminished flowering

To combat deficiency:

• Where possible, flood the planting rows with clean water to leach toxic

• salts out of the soil

• Cultivate the soil surface to improve water flow and reduce buildup of salts

• Apply a well-balanced NPK fertilizer with higher potassium content

Excess

• May lead to deficiency of other nutrients (calcium, magnesium, zinc, iron) due to blocked absorption

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Further Reading

• Optimal Rate of Organic Fertilizer during the Vegetative-stage for Cannabis Grown in Two Coir-based Substrates

• Environmental Impact of Outdoor Cannabis Production

• Nutrient Deficiencies

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Sun Clone Recommendations

• Advanced Nutrients Big Bud 

• Advanced Nutrients Bloom Micro Grow 3 pack set

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General Purpose Fertilizers (suggested 1-1-1 ratio):

• Plant Marvel Nutriculture brand 20:20:20 

• Jack’s Professional General Purpose 20:20:20

 

Key To Life Supply (keytolifesupply.com)

Revitalize (Water Soluble Plant Food Supplement)

• Cost dependent on size: 1oz for $4, up to 50lbs for $580.50

• “Revitalize is made with nitrogen, an essential macronutrient for all stages of plant growth.”

• Nitrogen Content: 14%

 

Trim Leaf (trimleaf.com)

NPK RAW Grow Nutrients

• 8oz for $49.99

• NPK Content: N-7%, P-4%, K-5%

What are the different types of IPM?

There are many ways to include IPM into your growing system, including: sprays, soil additives, helpful bugs, and traps.

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NOTE: sulfur and oil-based foliar sprays should not be used in tandem! It will burn your plants to use both. 

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Foliar sprays 

SunClone uses Plant Therapy from Lost Coast. It’s great for deterring pests and removing/preventing powdery mildew. Plant Therapy may be outside a home grower’s budget, but they do offer a free 2 ounce sample on their website: Plant Therapy Sample

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Neem oil can also be used to deter pests. Arbico Organics has a 32 ounce bottle for $14.99: Monterey Neem Oil

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Sulfur-based regiment

Sulfur is a great powdery mildew preventative. It works by disrupting the metabolic functioning of fungi. Suffa-Registered for use in a wide range of fungal diseases, insects and nutrient deficiencies. Grand Arbor Supply has a 2.5 gallon bottle for $42.95: Grand Arbor Supply 

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Elemental Sulfur (available as ENDzyme Pods from Key To Life Supply) is a biologically activated enzyme with 7 strains of bacillus that continue to produce enzymes for weeks, without killing your biologicals. Most marketed enzymes do kill off beneficial microbes and other soil biology. Can be used as a soil drench or foliar spray.

 

Here are some tips and benefits of using this Key To Life Supply product:

• Safe to spray through bloom cycles and day of harvest with extremely positive side effects.

• It will prevent oxidation, helping to organically preserve final products. Also increases the quality of extracts.

• These enzymes eliminate mildew and help prevent other anaerobic bacteria, fungi, and viruses when used regularly.

• Prevents botrytis, pythium, septoria, root rot, fusarium, verticillium, algae growth, Aspergillus Niger, Powdery Mildew, Downy Mildew, Spider Mites and kills most pest eggs.

• Cleans tanks, pumps, drip lines, emitters, root zones, plant tissue and more.

• This product is organic

• Can replace any other enzyme product, H202 or hypochlorous acid products, and is a direct replacement for Zerotol

• It can be used in organic and high salt environments to clean your system and keep your system clean.

• It helps break down complex nutrients to be easier to absorb by the plant. Increasing plant health and nutrient uptake.

• It comes in pre-dosed soluble pods that treat up to 150 gallons per pod.

 

Soil Drench

By nourishing the roots and fortifying the plant from within, root drenches contribute to a strong and thriving garden while minimizing the need for conventional pesticides.

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Traps

Laying out traps for pests, especially those with wings, can be effective for getting rid of an existing pest issue; however, won’t do much to prevent one from starting.

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Beneficials

Insects are not always a sign of bad times ahead! There are such things as beneficial insects when it comes to growing your plants, as they eat the insects that would harm your growth. Ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory mites eat other bugs such as aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites.

 

Bacteria (like LalGuard broad spectrum bioinsecticide that contains the fungus Metarhizium brunneumstrain F52) similar to insects, are not all bad. How the fungus in Lalguard works is by accessing the main body cavity of the target pest through the pest's cuticle then colonizing the pest host, causing death in about 3-7 days.

 

Crops are another excellent way to prevent pests and other plant issues without the addition of synthetic chemicals or water/soil additives.

Chamomile accumulates calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Those nutrients go back into the soil when the plant dies, which helps defend against whiteflies.

Chrysanthemum flowers contain pyrethrin, which affects pests’ nervous system. It also acts as a natural pesticide, defending root structures against nematodes.

Additionally, other plants that have strong smells like lemon balm, basil, and garlic help to deter pests. 

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Further Reading

• Pest Management Methods (PennState)

• Integrated Pest Management for Cannabis Cultivation

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Sun Clone Recommendations

• Plant Therapy

• Neem Oil

• Yellow Sticky Traps

Why is lighting important?

Plants need sunlight in order to trigger photosynthesis, which is essentially breathing for plants. Okay, it’s a 1:1 comparison to breathing, but it’s pretty close. Photosynthesis is when a plant takes in CO2 and water and turns it into energy and releases oxygen.

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To get the most out of your plant when growing indoors, you want to simulate sunlight the best you can. Grow lights with the right specs will do that. Seedlings thrive under quality, energy-efficient, full-spectrum lights that are evenly distributed over your growing area.

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What makes a good grow light?

According to the University of Vermont, “to identify a quality full-spectrum light, look at the Correlated Color Temperature (CCT) and Color Rendering Index (CRI) information on the product label. CCT, measured in Kelvins (K), describes the color of the light source in terms of warm (yellows) and cool (blues) colors. Natural light has a CCT rating of 6500K, so a light bulb with a rating near 6500K is ideal for grow lights. CRI is used to evaluate how well the light compares to visible sunlight. The maximum CRI rating of 100 corresponds to the natural light from sunlight. Good full-spectrum lights for indoor gardening have a CRI rating above 85, but the closer to 100, the better.”

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What if the CRI ratings are unavailable?

When CRI rating is unavailable, consider looking at the light spectrum. Most of the light spectrum we care about for plant growth is aptly called visible light (also commonly called Photosynthetic Active Radiation, or PAR, when light shopping). The spectrum is measured in nanometers (nm), and the visible light spectrum falls typically between 380-700 nm, with sunlight ranging from 400-750 nm. 

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There are two more specific ranges on the light spectrum that are particularly important for plant growth: blue and red wavelengths.

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The blue light wavelength at 400-500 nm is connected to growth and flowering and can improve the quality of certain types of plant. When used in conjunction with other grow light spectrum wavelengths, blue light can help you tightly manage growth cycles.

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The red light wavelength at 600-700 nm is one of the most efficient grow light spectrums for photosynthesis and plant biomass growth and is one of the most efficient spectrums for plant growth and energy consumption.

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Also, far-red radiation from 700-800 nm can promote extension growth and ‘influences the size of the leaves, the length of stems, and ultimately the height of plants.

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Further Reading

• Artificial photosynthesis can produce food without sunshine

• UChicago: EFFECT OF LIGHT QUALITY ON CANNABINOID CONTENTOF CANNABIS SATIVA

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Sun Clone Recommendations

LED Grow Lights Depot (ledgrowlightsdepot.com)

• Low cost: Mars Hydro VG80 ($99.99) 

  • CCT: 4800-5000K

  • CRI/Light Spectrum: 455-465 nm, 650-665 nm

• Median Cost: HLG 350 Diablo ($549.00)

  • CCT: 4627, per HLG

  • CRI/Light Spectrum: 88.30, per HLG

    • Full spectrum white and 660nm red advertised

• Secondary Median Cost: FloraFlex 700W Full Spectrum ($374.99)

  • CCT: 3000K/5000K

  • CRI/Light spectrum: Full spectrum, Red 660nm and Far Red 730nm

 

Trim Leaf (trimleaf.com)

• Low Cost: Migro Aray 2 Full Spectrum LED ($159.00)

  • CCT: White Samsung 3000K and 5000K CT LEDs 

  • CRI/Light Spectrum: 90CRI white + 660nm RED 

• Median Cost: Optic Slim Killa Watt 1000 Bloom ($1399.00; currently on sale for $799)

  • CCT: 3500K Mixed White LEDs

  • CRI/Light Spectrum: Blue 401 - 450nm; and Deep Red 401 - 660nm

• High Cost: B.Lite Premium 1940e ($1500.00)

  • CCT: 3426K

  • CRI/Light Spectrum: Full spectrum, up to 665nm

Why does having a good tent matter?

When growing plants indoors, having an air-tight space allows you to control nearly every aspect of your plant’s environment, keeping it stable for the best possible outcome. Features like reflective surfaces, solid frames, and proper ventilation are all important factors for picking a tent that is right for your plants and space.

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How big should my tent be?

Well, it depends. How many plants are you growing? How much room do you have to dedicate to growing your plants?

 

Here’s a basic guide to picking the right size tent.

• 2x2ft. Grow Tents- These can fit around 2 mature plants in 5-7 gallon pots.

• 2x4ft. to 3x3ft. Grow Tents- These tents can fit 2-4 plants in 5-7 gallon pots.

• 4x4ft. to 4x5ft. Grow Tents- These are able to fit 4-6 plants comfortably in 5-7 gallon pots.

• 5x5ft. Grow Tents- These tents can fit around 5-6 plants comfortably in 5-7 gallon pots.

• 6x6ft. to 7x7ft. Grow Tents- These grow tents can house 6-8 plants comfortably in 5-7 gallon pots lined.

• 8x4ft. Grow Tents- These grow tents can house up to 8-10 plants comfortably in 5-7 gallon pots.

• 8x8ft. to 9x9ft. Grow Tents- These can house around 14-16 plants comfortably growing in 5-7 gallon pots.

• 10x10ft and Larger Grow Tents- These can hold up to 30 plants comfortably that grow in 5-7 gallon pots.

 

Grow tents help give you control over your grow room’s environment, and a stable environment is critical to high-quality yields. Reflective material assures your plants get full light coverage the entire time your grow lights are on. The cover helps keep your garden’s temperatures and humidity levels insulated so they can grow in an environment that’s best for their growth. All in all, with a grow tent you have the ability to have full control over your garden’s environment.

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Does the type of frame matter?

I wouldn’t have guessed that the frame would be important. As long as it keeps the tent up… except not all tents are created equal. Here’s a little bit of information to help you decide the best options for you.

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Metal Frames…

…tend to keep their shape much better than plastic frames. Generally, poles aren't thicker than 1mm, yet they can hold a surprising amount of weight. Metal frames tend to outlast plastic ones, though make sure the poles are coated to protect against rust to prevent breakage. 

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Plastic frames…

…are much lighter than metal frames but can still hold a good amount of weight. Plastic poles tend to be thicker than metal poles, but they’ll still be the same weight or lighter than. They’re also inherently rust proof, so the only thing you have to worry about are the poles bending and breaking. Though they may not rust, they will bow, and bowing can lead to breaking. Bending poles will also cause your lights and equipment to hang lower to your plants, which can have negative effects on their growth. 

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What material should my tent cover be?

Oxford Cloth

Oxford Cloth is a fabric that’s wrinkle-resistant, waterproof, and tearproof. Oxford material has a special double-weave that allows for an overall thicker and rougher material than other covers. This keeps your grow room insulated better than single-weave fabrics like cotton. It also helps fight against wrinkles that can have adverse effects on the way light is reflected onto your plants.

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Canvas

Canvas is a tough fabric that’s usually woven with other materials to make it tough and water resistant. Canvas ranges from a thick 210D all the way to a heavy duty 1680D (“D” stands for “denier” which describes the thickness of the threads used in the material). But the stronger the material the heavier it’s going to be, and most canvas for tents is closer to the 1680D range. That means these are usually heavier than Oxford, and that can make assembly a little harder.

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Now you’re going to say that the type of reflection matters.

Unsurprisingly, you’re right. There are different styles of reflective materials which could be more or less beneficial to the way you grow your plants. Again, you’re the one who gets to decide what’s best for you, and we are here to provide you with a little information about the styles available.

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Hammered

Hammered reflective material allows for light to hit multiple points on the walls, ceiling, and floor and reflect it onto your plants. This material offers a soft yet intense reflection of light compared to diamond mylar. 

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Diamond

Diamond reflective material gives your plants the maximum amount of intense light reflection of all reflective materials. It’s so intense, however, that it can cause more hotspots across your canopy than hammered material. When using diamond mylar, be sure to keep an eye on plants to assure they are evenly lit.

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What about ventilation?

Airflow Vents sit toward the bottom of a tent so that air can flow freely into the tent without help from a duct fan, and are covered in mesh to ensure pests and debris can’t enter your garden unwanted.

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Duct ports and airflow vents should be located on the bottom and tops of the walls. This will make airflow into and out of your growing area much more efficient.

Grow tents should have as many duct ports and air vents as needed to effectively keep the environmental conditions of your grow room. Too few and you can’t run equipment or keep a stable environment; too many and you run the risk of letting air out or harmful pests in.

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It’s common to have 1x 8”, 6”, or 4” duct port and 1x 12” rectangular airflow vent per 2ft of wall, and 2-4x duct ports with 2x airflow vents for the back. This seems to be the amount necessary, as manufacturers from Yield Lab to Gorilla Grow Tents have these setup’s.

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Sun Clone Recommendations

LED Grow Lights Depot

• Low cost: AC Infinity 2'x2' Grow Tent & Ventilation Kit ($289.95)

  • 2000D Canvas

  • Diamond mylar lining

  • Extra-thick steel poles (unknown if coated for rust prevention)

• Median Cost: Mars Hydro TSW 2000 & 4'x4' Complete Grow Tent Kit ($589.99)

  • 1680D Oxford

  • Non-diamond, non-hammered mylar lining

  • Corrosion-resistant metal poles

  • Comes with 3000K/5000K grow light

 

Trim Leaf (trimleaf.com)

• Low cost: Goliath Grow Tent ($285.00)

  • 2' x 2.5' x 6'11"

  • 1680D thread density fabric

  • Diamond Reflective Walls

  • Steel poles and steel interlocking pins

• High Cost: Secret Jardin Intense V3 120 ($1195.00)

  • 4' x 10' x 7'

  • 900D tear-proof fabric (Oxford vs Canvas unspecified)

  • 30 mm diameter frame (Metal or Plastic unspecified, pictures appear metal)

What is the ideal temperature and humidity for my plants?

Similar to fertilizer, temperature and humidity needs depend on the growth stage of the plant.

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Seedling

• Humidity: 65-80%

• Temperature: 70–85°F lights on; 65–80°F lights off

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While your plants are still establishing their roots, they need high humidity to decrease leaf transpiration.

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Vegetative

• Humidity: 55-70%, Temperature: 70-85°F lights on / 60-75°F lights off

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Now, in the vegetative state the humidity can be lowered gradually in 5% increments, but don’t go lower than 40%, until your plants can start flowering. The root system will continue to grow, as will the stems and leaves, while the plant prepares to flower.

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Flowering

• Humidity: 40–60%

• Temperature: 65-84°F lights on / 60-75°F lights off

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Humidity should stay relatively low as the plant flowers. This will prevent mildew and mold from forming. Temperatures can also stay lower, and avoid high temperatures so plants don’t dry out.

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How can I check my temperatures and humidity levels?

Use temperature sensors and hygrometer gauges to check your temperature and humidity (wetness in the air) levels. Hygrometers check humidity by finding how much wetness there is in a particular part of the air.

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Pro tip

Keep more than one gauge, so you can check if your gauges are working by setting them in the same environment and comparing readings. If they are not reading the same, one is mis-calibrated. 

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Sun Clone Recommendations

LED Grow Lights Depot

• Low Cost: AC Infinity Controller 79 Pro ($69.99) 

Pruning Scissors

For when your plants need a trim to encourage the kind of growth you want. SunClone uses and recommends the Chikamasa brand.

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Plant stakes

For those top heavy plants that need a little extra support. There are different styles and materials. What you’ll need depends on the size of your growing space, the height and weight of your plants, and your style preferences.

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Pots

Plastic pots are affordable and durable, typically do not have any handles, but can be reused. They have generally less drainage and aeration of soil, which can affect your soil make up and watering schedule. They are also easier to find since they are at grow and garden stores both in person and online. 

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Fabric pots are usually more expensive than pots, and typically do have handles. They also generally have more drainage and aeration of soil. In addition to having a higher cost up front, they are more difficult to reuse. Here’s an example of where you can find fabric pots and what they look like: GeoPot Fabric Pots.